Escaping the noise of Mumbai is difficult. Even in those spaces where one would ordinarily be able to relax, like the beach or at the pool, you are abused by car horns, spitting men or stray dogs howling. After spending the past few days sampling Mumbai’s hot spots, including Chor Bazaar, Crawford Market and Juhu, I was beginning to crave serenity. Walking the streets, dodging traffic and inhaling a cocktail of car fumes can take its toll. Add to this the 32 degree heat and you can quickly understand why I needed to step away if only for an hour. Thankfully I found 3 places where the air is cooler, the busy streets are replaced with silence and one can take time to simply breath.
1) Now it pays to know a few of Mumbai’s elite. They live in relative luxury, speak English like you or I and have access to many of the city’s Cricket and Polo Clubs left here by the British. These clubs are exclusive and have the usual sporting facilities; squash, swimming, gym etc. However they also run restaurants, hotel rooms, spas and valet parking. A leisurely morning stroll to the CCI Club in Churchgate with Mr. P we decided to exercise his membership privileges with a head, neck and shoulder massage. Just what I needed after lugging my heavy backpack around for the last few days. Air-conditioned bliss and not a siren to be heard.
2) My guide book describes it as Mumbai’s most sacred and tranquil oases. A precinct of serene temples and bathing pilgrims, meandering, traffic free streets and picturesque dharamsalas. Tucked away on the southern most tip of Malabar Hill is Banganga Tank, a bathing pool in the hills surrounded by new apartment blocks and ancient temples. Its well worth taking a taxi there and walking the 200 or so steps to the this place. I spent an hour there yesterday, sitting, contemplating the city and watching sadhus, children and cows take shelter next to the water. Legend has it, Lord Raam pierced this oasis using one of his arrows. There is a wooden pole in the center of the Tank to mark this spot. Beautiful.
3) “Get up early and escape the crowds”. Better still, take the ferry across to Elephanta Island at midday when the sun is at its hottest and the tourists are busy eating or sleeping. You will find the caves almost empty apart from a few sleeping tour guides and a monkey or two – time seems to stand still here. What a way to spend my last day in Mumbai. One of the city’s most visited tourist spots the Elephanta caves is an excellent place to browse in relative comfort away from the hubbub. I was careful not to eat anything while on there, despite it being lunch time, as I had been warned about the family of monkeys, ruthlessly snatching kernels of corn, crisps and nuts from unsuspecting visitors. The carvings are remarkable however. I took some time to sit on the cool rock and listen to a holy man say a prayer and chant before heading to one of the islands many outdoor cafes for a thali before heading back.
So my time in Maximum city draws to an end. My hosts have been brilliant, serving up Mumbai’s finest specialties for breakfast and dinner. They’ve also given me some excellent advice on places to visit and how to get there using public transport. A huge thanks to Mr. P, Auntie and Pankaj Uncle.
Next stop – Kolkata 🙂