Oases

Escaping the noise of Mumbai is difficult. Even in those spaces where one would ordinarily be able to relax, like the beach or at the pool, you are abused by car horns, spitting men or stray dogs howling. After spending the past few days sampling Mumbai’s hot spots, including Chor Bazaar, Crawford Market and Juhu, I was beginning to crave serenity. Walking the streets, dodging traffic and inhaling a cocktail of car fumes can take its toll. Add to this the 32 degree heat and you can quickly understand why I needed to step away if only for an hour. Thankfully I found 3 places where the air is cooler, the busy streets are replaced with silence and one can take time to simply breath.

1) Now it pays to know a few of Mumbai’s elite. They live in relative luxury, speak English like you or I and have access to many of the city’s Cricket and Polo Clubs left here by the British. These clubs are exclusive and have the usual sporting facilities; squash, swimming, gym etc. However they also run restaurants, hotel rooms, spas and valet parking. A leisurely morning stroll to the CCI Club in Churchgate with Mr. P we decided to exercise his membership privileges with a head, neck and shoulder massage. Just what I needed after lugging my heavy backpack around for the last few days. Air-conditioned bliss and not a siren to be heard.

2) My guide book describes it as Mumbai’s most sacred and tranquil oases. A precinct of serene temples and bathing pilgrims, meandering, traffic free streets and picturesque dharamsalas. Tucked away on the southern most tip of Malabar Hill is Banganga Tank, a bathing pool in the hills surrounded by new apartment blocks and ancient temples. Its well worth taking a taxi there and walking the 200 or so steps to the this place. I spent an hour there yesterday, sitting, contemplating the city and watching sadhus, children and cows take shelter next to the water. Legend has it, Lord Raam pierced this oasis using one of his arrows. There is a wooden pole in the center of the Tank to mark this spot. Beautiful.

3) “Get up early and escape the crowds”. Better still, take the ferry across to Elephanta Island at midday when the sun is at its hottest and the tourists are busy eating or sleeping. You will find the caves almost empty apart from a few sleeping tour guides and a monkey or two – time seems to stand still here. What a way to spend my last day in Mumbai. One of the city’s most visited tourist spots the Elephanta caves is an excellent place to browse in relative comfort away from the hubbub. I was careful not to eat anything while on there, despite it being lunch time, as I had been warned about the family of monkeys, ruthlessly snatching kernels of corn, crisps and nuts from unsuspecting visitors.  The carvings are remarkable however. I took some time to sit on the cool rock and listen to a holy man say a prayer and chant before heading to one of the islands many outdoor cafes for a thali before heading back.

So my time in Maximum city draws to an end. My hosts have been brilliant, serving up Mumbai’s finest specialties for breakfast and dinner. They’ve also given me some excellent advice on places to visit and how to get there using public transport. A huge thanks to Mr. P, Auntie and Pankaj Uncle.

Next stop – Kolkata 🙂

Mumbai Dreams

Nothing can quite prepare you for Mumbai – it grabs you and doesn’t let you go. Most westerners struggle with the noise, pollution, over population and abject poverty. However if you allow yourself to stop fighting against the traffic, people, touts and beggars and begin moving with the city, listening for its beat, you’ll experience a welcoming, beautiful and tropical metropolis.

I arrived in Mumbai yesterday morning. After a long drive from Navsari in Gujarat my parents and I parted ways at Chatrapati Shivaji International Airport in floods of tears. I quickly said wiped my eyes dry made my way to the Colaba Fort area to distance myself from the emotion I felt leaving my parents for a 2nd time in my life. As I rushed past the tower blocks, slums and Marine Drive, I wondered when I might see them again. Just as the heavy haze which hangs over Mumbai in the dawn light, I too felt burdened as if somehow I was letting them down by leaving on my own journey. Time will tell.

Arriving at Mistry Court in Churchgate I was met by Hairy (Pravir), an old friend who had just rolled out of bed. After a delicious breakfast of curried potatoes and rice, fresh fruit and coffee I was ready see more of this fascinating city. Following Pravir’s father’s advice over lunch at the CCI Club, I made my way east along beautiful canopied streets reaching the Oval, a large park opposite Bombay University’s imposing Gothic building. Fittingly the Oval was a hive of cricketing activity. 50 or so games taking place all at the same time. Dodging several outfield shots I reached the other side with my head still firmly on my shoulders. I found a palm tree to sit under to cool off. It’s noticeably hotter in Mumbai than in Gujarat and the palm trees provided a welcomed relief from the afternoon rays and an opportunity to watch the cricket from a safer distance.

After cricket I thought I’d continue East towards Kala Ghoda (Black Horse), Mumbai’s Museum district. Currently there is an arts fair in the area, with many of the streets closed to traffic, selling amazing jewelry from across India. In the evenings there are live performances from traditional and more contemporary artists. This, I thought was an excellent place to spend a few hours taking pictures, shopping and soaking up the atmosphere.

After the afternoon’s explorations, Pravir and I went to play a spot of 5-aside football off Marine Drive in sweltering heat, before heading out for food and a few beers in Colaba. This town is certainly not cheap! But boy did the beer taste amazing. What a day – worth every penny. I’m looking forward seeing more of this incredible city.

Hot New Route

The locals have noticed the heat. I’ve noticed the heat. In a matter of days the temperature has risen to 32-33 degrees and I’ve started to burn. Its still the winter, so Lord only knows how hot its likely to get come June. I’ve reorganised my route so that I’m high in the hills and mountains of Himanchal Pradesh by May/June when things really start to cook.

For now, my time in Navsari Gujarat draws to a close. It’s been educational and a lot of fun, however I’m ready to part ways with familiarity and a common tongue for the brash cities of Mumbai and Kolkata. My route now starts in the East and meanders its way back to Mumbai via Varanasi, Jhansi and Bhopal, at which point I take a sharp right turn, northward to the hill stations and yoga retreats via Delhi. In totality the journey will take me 2-3 months and I’m eager to go it alone, as family is become a little tiresome.

Along the way there is the small matter of finding travel partners, gaining entry to local businesses and meeting artists for work. (Continue to check Boticca.com for my first piece on the Surat diamond industry). Thankfully eating, traveling and sleeping is cheap here, so money can be saved for more expensive parts of my trip later in the year. [Note to self: begin researching trekking tours in Nepal].

In other news, I’ve had my first bout of Delhi Belly and uploading pictures to the web has been troublesome. I apologise to readers; once I have a more secure and speedier internet connection, I’ll post some good stuff from Surat, Dandi and Vapi. I head to Mumbai on Wednesday night to connect with Mr. P at the Black Horse arts festival and interview several of Mumbai’s fashionista.

Bas! Danyavaad.