My head is pounding. My heart beating faster as I struggle to catch my breath. The icy air stings my nostrils and the sweat from my brow freezes. Finger tips tingle, shoulders heavy – aching all over. Taking a moment observe my surroundings I stop, wipe my brow and switch off my head lamp. It takes a moment for my eyes to adjust to the darkness. Clear skies offer a glimpse at the stars – unobstructed. Magnificent. A row of head lamps and torches snakes its way off into the dark shadowy hulk of Mount Kinabalu and the sound of hiking poles break the otherwise silent mountain side.
I slept well considering the altitude and the previous day’s hike – but nothing could quite prepare me for a night ascent. Up at 2am and out the door by 3am we climb over a kilometer vertically into the night. I’m nervous but excited and make up ground quickly. But my swift ascent is halted midway through by slower climbers at a steep section. I quickly realise that the caution exhibited by other climbers is justified.
I step up to the rope which has been anchored to the rock face. Below me I see village lights some 5-6 kilometers away, a slip here could be costly – its a long way down. Bracing the rope I slowly inch my way up the rock, carefully placing each foot into a natural crack in the rock thankful for the shroud of night. At one point I find myself on all fours unable to find traction on the slippery rock and fearing the worst, only to make a final push to a level area to regain my composure. The rope zig-zags its way up the mountain side at worrying vertical angles. My upper body feels weak – I wish I had more strength. I stay close to a Dutch couple who are ahead of me. They look strong, like they’ve done this type of thing before. Its technical and physically demanding. Though I fear heights, its a healthy fear keeping me alert tonight – particularly at this hour. We help each other to safer ground.
The steep section now conquered I reach a check-point, sign-in and continue up a large plateau. The rock is smooth and layered like the folds on an armoured rhino. The rope acts as a path leading upwards, many climbers choosing to use it as a point-to-point stopping to rest every few meters – its still very steep. I choose to stray off the path a little and zig-zag my way up the rock – a technique I learned from Peruvian porters on the Inca trail. With the rhythm of my breath I quickly pass the traffic and find myself alone in the darkness, ahead of the pack. It’s 4.15 and the light begins to change. Dawn is approaching and its noticeably colder.
I make a final push to Low’s Peak at 4095m above sea level. Clambering up large boulders I see the summit a few hundred meters away and concentrate on making quick progress if only to keep my body warm. Finally I reach my goal. A local guide wrapped in blankets congratulates me as I touch the highest point of Kinabalu at 5.15am. I’m breathless, exhausted but truly exhilarated from the climb. With dawn approaching, I change into warmer clothes, find a spot to sit and wait for sunrise – my camera in hand. I’m not disappointed. Good morning.
finding | neel 