Essential kit for the long term traveller

Having spent almost a year on the road in Asia there are a few items that I’ve found incredibly useful and versatile. I’m certainly not the lightest traveller, but carrying 20kgs and having the necessary gear for most pursuits, weather types and actives has proved to be more important to me than staying light and nimble.

 

1) Backpack – Osprey Aether 60
(http://www.ospreypacks.com)

A good lightweight but strong pack is essential piece of gear. One should consider size, durability, utility and comfort.

• Stow on the go – I love to hike, and the Osprey Aether provides a really cool stow on the go mechanism that allows me to quickly stow hiking poles without having to take the pack off my back
• Durable with excellent panel stitching. A backpack takes a lot of abuse while travelling. Public transport in Asia can be quite challenging. The Osprey performs well with its aluminium frame, water resistant material and strong compression straps
• Osprey Airporter –  lockable bag that you can throw over your pack when checking-in luggage at the airport. Excellent opportunist thief deterrent and keeps your pack dry.

2) iPad/iPod Touch/MacBook Air

I do travel with quite a lot of technology but allow me to explain the benefits of devices

such as an e-reader or netbook while on the road before you label me as a ‘flash packer’.

• An e-Reader is excellent particularly for travel guides. The number of times I’ve met fellow travellers trying to off load several books they no longer wish to carry. I keep all my books in digital format. Its a real space saver and convenient for long journeys. I recommend downloading the Kindle app.
• Skype – Its the only way family and friends can really contact me. Skype is perfect for anyone who likes to make cheap or free calls to their loved ones back home.
• Blogging – WordPress, tumblr – I’ve most of my blog posts using these apps for iPad.
• Photo Editing – self explanatory. Show your friends and family all your best holiday photographs
• Making reservations and travel research – WiFi is pretty easy to find in most guest houses, travel hubs and coffee shops. Use your technology’s WiFi capabilities to research travel destinations and make reservations. Simple.
• Lightweight – gone are the days when you lug around several kgs worth of kit. Apple in particular understands the demand for slim and lightweight devices. Account for an extra 3-4kgs for your travel tech including chargers and cables.
• Music – If you’re like me, I quickly get tired of my music collection. These devices allow you to download new songs, podcasts and even movies on the road.

3) Ruggedized Vacuum Bags

I cannot tell you how useful these things were. I opted for the strengthened vacuum packs from PackMate (http://www.packmate.co.uk/). Some of the benefits include.

• Squeeze bulky items like fleece jackets into a very small space
• No vacuum cleaner required. Simply roll the pack to push all the air out.
• waterproof and hardwearing.
• Use to provide cushioning for fragile items in you pack

4) SteriPEN

• Environmentally Friendly – less plastic waste
• Tastes better than iodine pills
• Can

5) Exped or Sea to Summit Dry Pack

• Excellent for wet weather pursuits like rafting, waterfalls and scuba diving
• Keep valuables particularly expensive cameras, other electronics. Also nice to change into a dry set of clothes from time time. I was in South East Asia during rainy season it became an essential item.

6) Exped Packable cells

• Keeps your pack organised
• available is different sized to fit day packs as well as main back pack
• Glow in the dark zippers

7) Washing Line

• Nothing worse than damp rotting clothing in your pack.
• Easy to hang in hotel rooms or balconies

8) System Camera

• Performs like a bulkier Digital SLR but half the size
• Interchangeable lenses for every eventuality
• Not pocketable but light enough to carry around your neck for even the longest treks

9) Nike ACG Sandals or Tevas

• Most people settle for flip-flops. Something more hardwareing is perhaps more ideal
• washable and breathable
• Can be used for hiking or water based activities
• Wear them in first to deter opportunist thieves when visiting temple

10) First Aid Kit

• Be fully prepared for all eventualities
• Bandages, plasters and antiseptic creams for cuts
• Anti-fungal creams for sweat related itching
• Pills for nausea, diarrhoea, headache, sleeping and malaria
• Chapstick for cold climates
• Alcohol wipes to clean wounds
• Idodine to treat open sores and scrapes
• scissors for cutting skin, bandages and bandaids.

Travel Update: Reality Check

I’m sitting in a Starbucks coffee shop at the Pavilion Mall in arguably Kuala Lumpur’s most fashionable district. Dan Tan and I have become regular and recurring travel buddies. We both sip our coffee, faces glued to our laptops, occasionally interrupting one another to share new songs we’ve found or to comment on killer new technology. Dan seems particularly engrossed today on attempting to make an animated GIF file from some video footage we recorded yesterday at the mall. Earphones in, beats rockin’, finest Columbian roast. We may as well be in New York or London.

Dan and I spend hours in Starbucks making use of high speed Internet access.

The glass door behind me opens. A few Malay fashionistas, hand-in-hand and smelling like a million dollars order a creme brule frappe. The humid, sticky air from outside reminds me that I’m still in South East Asia and that I’m still ‘on the road’. Malaysia, while not ‘truly asia’ as the ad campaign might suggest (India is TRULY Asia) has been a worthwhile destination if only for the food and shopping. I like it here but my wallet and bank account are a little less enthused. It’s expensive. New computer, camera upgrade and wardrobe ‘stream-lining’ are partially responsible for the financial squeeze admittedly.

However with the 12 month milestone and my 30th quickly approaching I’ve quenched my thirst for travel. By no means am I finished yet but I’ve revised my plans based on available ,finances and travel style. Travelling slowly, not forcing an itinerary, staying longer and doing more in one place, I find, is much less stressful and allows me to have a more fulfilling experience. Mixing rural areas with cities also helps to maintain a balance. It’s nice to be able to call home and speak to my parents, update my blog and grab a movie from time to time. It’s equally satisfying to scale a mountain, walk through fields of rice and mingle with local villagers. Balance.

Dim Sum dinner with Dan Tan and Rune

Time is short. So with that I’m strongly considering cutting Australia out of my plan. The Australian dollar is strong and the country vast. South America could also be cut in favour of visiting family and friends in India (again) and Canada instead before returning to the UK. My plans aren’t fixed, flights aren’t booked but the reality of long-term travel as finite has hit home.

I receive an email from LinkedIn: ‘Mr. Mistry, opportunities you might be interested in – London/New York/Singapore. Ralph Lauren menswear stares at me from across the shiny mall. Suits, Friday Peroni’s and the reality of ‘work’ is dawning on me. I reminisce with fondness of a London life but also feel a faint tinge of fear. I can’t go back to that life … this .. this whole experience has changed me for the better.

My camera sits on the coffee table. A tool that I’ve mastered. Creative. Connecting me with the world. Writing this blog, telling stories, contributing in an entirely different way. How do I use these skills moving forward? I have ideas that I would like to pursue upon my return. Enterprising ideas. How can I take all these experience to create something unique?

Interesting times lay ahead … an adventure in of itself. I’m excited.

A Peak Experience

Mount Kinabalu (4095m). South East Asia's highest mountain

My head is pounding. My heart beating faster as I struggle to catch my breath. The icy air stings my nostrils and the sweat from my brow freezes.  Finger tips tingle, shoulders heavy – aching all over. Taking a moment observe my surroundings I stop, wipe my brow and switch off my head lamp. It takes a moment for my eyes to adjust to the darkness. Clear skies offer a glimpse at the stars – unobstructed. Magnificent. A row of head lamps and torches snakes its way off into the dark shadowy hulk of Mount Kinabalu and the sound of hiking poles break the otherwise silent mountain side.

It's an early start - 2am. Rune Bundgaard, a fellow mountaineer readies himself.

I slept well considering the altitude and the previous day’s hike – but nothing could quite prepare me for a night ascent. Up at 2am and out the door by 3am we climb over a kilometer vertically into the night. I’m nervous but excited and make up ground quickly. But my swift ascent is halted midway through by slower climbers at a steep section. I quickly realise that the caution exhibited by other climbers is justified.

Rope work up steep and slippery rock.

I step up to the rope which has been anchored to the rock face. Below me I see village lights some 5-6 kilometers away, a slip here could be costly – its a long way down. Bracing the rope I slowly inch my way up the rock, carefully placing each foot into a natural crack in the rock thankful for the shroud of night. At one point I find myself on all fours unable to find traction on the slippery rock and fearing the worst, only to make a final push to a level area to regain my composure. The rope zig-zags its way up the mountain side at worrying vertical angles. My upper body feels weak – I wish I had more strength. I stay close to a Dutch couple who are ahead of me. They look strong, like they’ve done this type of thing before. Its technical and physically demanding. Though I fear heights, its a healthy fear keeping me alert tonight – particularly at this hour. We help each other to safer ground.

Summit

The steep section now conquered I reach a check-point, sign-in and continue up a large plateau. The rock is smooth and layered like the folds on an armoured rhino. The rope acts as a path leading upwards, many climbers choosing to use it as a point-to-point stopping to rest every few meters – its still very steep. I choose to stray off the path a little and zig-zag my way up the rock – a technique I learned from Peruvian porters on the Inca trail. With the rhythm of my breath I quickly pass the traffic and find myself alone in the darkness, ahead of the pack. It’s 4.15 and the light begins to change. Dawn is approaching and its noticeably colder.

Peak Experience! I love climbing mountains!

I make a final push to Low’s Peak at 4095m above sea level. Clambering up large boulders I see the summit a few hundred meters away and concentrate on making quick progress if only to keep my body warm. Finally I reach my goal. A local guide wrapped in blankets congratulates me as I touch the highest point of Kinabalu at 5.15am. I’m breathless, exhausted but truly exhilarated from the climb. With dawn approaching, I change into warmer clothes, find a spot to sit and wait for sunrise – my camera in hand. I’m not disappointed. Good morning.

Its a long walk down again.

A guide welcomes the sunrise

Sunrise hits the mountain

Mountain forms a shadow over the earth.

Above the clouds

A very long walk down

Desensitised

Hilltribe women in Northern Vietnam. So many beautiful faces encountered.

Weaving through the traffic, no helmet, dodging the chickens and the impromptu badminton game on the side of the road. Inhaling diesel fumes, stinging nostrils, grilled fish and shrimps, salivating. Over populated, street vendor harassment, children screaming, old men observing, teenagers flirting but never touching. Women carrying harvests to morning markets. Sun rays intense, like yesterday and the day before it – my skin bronzed, beads of sweat on my brow, stinging my eyes. The monsoon rains will arrive at 4pm – usually – it’ll be cooler then. I still have time to climb this mountain before the streets turn into rivers. A Buddhist temple in the clouds at its peak, the murmur of prayer and the sweet perfume of incense. Ancient wisdom mixed with a modernising world. Digital monks, skeletal farmer, crippled child, intoxicated backpackers – all smiling. New village, rice paddies as far as the eye can see. Roads destroyed by floods, ill equipped maintenance men, no shoes, no future. Life continues in all its forms. Including mine. I’m a traveller, these are my streets, my mountains, my people. I live amongst them, eat with them, laugh with them. Few surprises, fewer shocks: desensitised to life on the road, searching for new thrills.

9 months of epic journeys, waterfalls, tropical beaches, bedbugs, alcohol fuelled parties, emotional goodbyes, sun burn, new friendships, ancient temples, spiritual encounters and adrenalin pumping hikes. Normality.

Travel Update: September 2011

Current gang of travel companions on Serendipity Beach in Sihanouk Ville, Southern Cambodia

As nothing of great importance (or blog-worthy) has happened over the last two weeks, other than beach time waiting for the rain to subside and increased alcohol consumption I will provide a quick travel update.

Today marks my 32nd week on the road, Vietnam the 7th country visited, the 4th parcel mailed and the 16th book read. I’ve re-introduced sea food into my diet as it has become difficult to find food that does not include fish sauce in South East Asia – its pretty much in everything. I haven’t weighed myself but I feel like i’ve gained a few kilos – the food here is incredible (and so cheap), often costing less than a dollar, plus i’ve been rather lazy on the exercise front. The beard is back with a vengeance as the locals seem to find it fascinating that someone can sprout so much hair. On several occasions I’ve received monkey like gestures, smiles and general appreciation. I will have it groomed before flying to Malaysia so as to not draw unwanted attention by passport control officials. Travel companionship is very easy here. So many backpackers, gap year students and expats working at NGOs and tour operators that I am rarely ‘alone’. Secretly however I long to be back in the mountains, a million miles away from anyone, away from the bars, restaurants and lights where its cooler and quiet. Travelling has become easier with few real challenges other than the occasional language disconnect. I feel it’s time to mix things up again. More challenging expeditions, volunteer work, travel greater distances using own transport, greater immersion in local culture and more intimate photography and painting opportunities. There are stories to be told.

So where next? Perhaps the following:

October – Malaysian Borneo – including some Orangutang hugging and a steep climb up Mt. Kinabalu. Hopefully the monsoon rains will have subsided by then.

November – Singapore briefly and more diving in Indonesia. Lombok and Bali have both been recommended so i may head that way also. Eager to explore smaller islands and perhaps try my hand at sailing.

December – Australia – Cairns to Sydney over 3 weeks. Christmas on the beach sounds like a nice alternative to cloudy and cold England. Finances may not permit this leg of the journey. Aussie Dollar is very strong so i may detour to Fiji instead.

January – New Zealand – Mountain Leaders Certification (something which i read about that increasingly feels to me like a worthwhile qualification to gain). I dream of mountains and middle earth.

February – South America

7 months have past and I’ve changed. I could technically end this journey today and reap the rewards immediately, however there are still unanswered questions, plans that require further thought, skills that need developing and, above all, friendships that are yet to be forged.

A Motorcycle Diary

Despite taking all the necessary precautions somehow it crept into my underpants. A cold trickle emanating from my left hip, working its way down between my legs making for a rather clammy ride. In an attempt to dry out I twist the throttle, gaining speed and feel the cool air pass through my rain proof jacket inflating my sleeves, wishing all the while I could enjoy the same sensation down below also. Just as i begin to dry we ride under another enormous dark cloud just as it bursts unleashing a downpour like that I have never witnessed before. The raindrops explode as they hit the hot asphalt and quickly turn the road into a river. Each drop stings my face and hands forcing me to reduce speed. My underpants are soaked once again – still there is no real time to think about the discomfort as i concentrate on not hydroplaning across the road.

Flooded fields. Many rural Laos houses are built on stilts.

It has rained almost everyday for the last 7 days with short but fleeting glimmers of blue skies luring me into a false sense of security. I now rarely leave my hotel without an umbrella. The rains are accompanied by apocalyptic thunderstorms often flooding entire provinces overnight and causing landslides, particularly in the mountains. I learn the 3 day loop around Khammuan Province in Laos is no longer passable in the east and with further rain forecast, large sections are likely to be under water. The monsoon season, I can safely say has arrived.

Geared Up

Life on the road affords me the opportunity to meet travellers a plenty. No sooner had I said farewell to the two Californian girls, I meet a Dutch couple, Kevin and Anouk who are eager to complete the 3 day loop also. Inevitably we join forces, hire bikes, synchronise watches and attempt to weatherproof our gear against the rain. Feeling like Ewan McGregor in The Long Way Round, we set out early hoping to reach Kong Lo in the north by late evening where we hope to spend the night.

Gothic Rock shrouded in rain cloud

3 hours into our ride and we have already suffered a punctured tire, have been soaked by several cloud bursts and have revised our plan to complete the loop in its entirety, opting to go as far as Tha Bak and return the same way we came. Finishing lunch at a roadside cafe we ride eastward into the hills.  The scenery is magnificent – huge rock formations forming mountains jutting out of the earth like gothic cathedrals. All around us rice paddies, bright green, watched over by farmers sheltering from the rain in wooden huts on stilts. Winding our way farther into the clouds our visibility is greatly reduced, further exacerbated by several more rains showers. We ride cautiously into a steamy haze.

Emerging unscathed from the mountain stretch we descend to Ban Na Hin. Yet more rice paddies straddle the road, straight and flat for over 10km – perfect for testing our motorcycle’s top speed.

Local woman fishing for anchovies in flood water

Either side of the road, women with square nets attached to bamboo frames fish for small anchovies, naked children swim in the flood water, waving at us with huge smiles as make for Kong Lo – “Sa Baidee!” The rain and sodden underpants do nothing to dampen my mood and I take a moment to breath in the clean air, stopping to take photographs and say hello to the locals.

We reach Kong Lo before night fall, check-in to a guest house, hang our clothes to dry and visit an eco-lodge for homemade Lao food with a few other tourists.

I opt for the vegetable soup and sticky rice. Finishing my meal, i walk back along the muddy path to my guest house in pitch darkness. Children emerge from the flood waters laughing and giggling as i try to pick my way around the largest puddles only to find myself ankle deep in sticky mud. The laughs grow louder then disappear into the night.

Fields of Rice. Foreground: Mud huts to store the grain. Cyclist smiles as I take the shot.

The rain eases and a low ghostly cloud lingers half way up the mountain in the distance. The sound of thousands of insects and frogs fills the air and a cool breeze whips around my neck. I lose myself in thought. Just look at where i am! 6 months have past so quickly! I hope for more of this as i continue around the world.

I sleep a deep sleep and awake to ….. you guessed it …. more rain and a punctured tire.

The following day we vist Kong Lo caves. An extraordinary network caves some as high as a cathedral.

Maritime Musing

Thai fishing boat returning at dawn

Its 3AM and I’m still wide awake. I reach for the bottle of water which i’d propped up against my bag to stop it from rolling away and take a gulp. Its warm and does nothing to quench my thirst. The rest of the cabin is silent except from an occasional cough and the monotonous creak of the strained vessel beneath us. I turn to check on Halysha, my latest travel companion. The two Gravel tablets she’d taken before boarding seemed to have served their purpose – she’s deep in sleep – her swollen ankle from a dance floor related incident resting upon a wooden step. “i wish i could sleep” i think to my self.

I’m on the 8PM night boat to Surathani from Koh Tao Island en-route to Koh Phi Phi on the Andaman Coast. Upon arriving at the dock, a gale is howling whipping sand into my eyes and almost blowing my hat into choppy sea. I stow mine and Halysha’s bag and settle into my allocated sleeping space. A hard leather mattress and a small grimy pillow is provided. The entire length of the boat is visible with mattresses running along each side. Above us are small wooden windows which i quickly open to allow some fresh air to pass through the cabin. There is room for at least 100 sleepers, but tonight we’re only 50 or so. The toilets are below deck, accessed via a small stair case at one end of the boat, but i still manage to step on a few toes upon making my first visit. I imagine I’ll be making several more trips across the boat on our 9 hour journey to the mainland.

10 minutes in, and Halysha and I quickly realise that tonight’s journey will not be smooth sailing. The heavy roll of the cabin, the crash of the waves against the single hulled boat, the monsoon heat quickly dispels any pre-journey excitement we had. True to form Halysha puts on a brave face – “I’m really happy right now, but i don’t feel so great”. I don’t share her positivity. I’m feeling sick so decide to stick my head out of the window groaning with every deep roll of the boat. The air is thick, the night sky cloudy and the sea menacing. I look to the horizon, Koh Tao a small speck of shiny lights in the distance. The lights disappear as sink low into a wave, then reappear as we ride the crest only to plummet deep again. I notice several other passengers have assumed a similar position to me. “I’m gonna be sick!”.

Closing my eyes i try to take my mind off the movement and analyse my trip so far: 6 months have passed incredibly quickly and I’ve only just left the Indian Subcontinent. There is so much of the world left to cover – how am i ever to experience it all with the time and finances i have? Thailand is beautiful but marred by ‘lads’ and ‘lasses’ on summer holiday, particularly from England. I can’t say i’ve met any real Thai people yet. Scuba diving has been brilliant and i hope to make the most of my new certification in Indonesia and Australia. I miss India terribly – it truly is the greatest country on earth and one that won’t ever leave me. I long for India’s rawness, its drama and sensations. This sugar coated, efficient, clean, expensive country is not real. Its geared entirely for western tourists. It doesn’t feel right and i need to get away. Loas, let me get to Laos soon. Should i go to Africa or cut north to Canada and visit family in Toronto? I miss London – when will i be there next?

I awake, my body covered in sweat from the heat. Making another trip to the bathroom to freshen up, i stop to look out of the window again. The sea is calmer and it looks like we’re approaching the mainland, the engines slow. Dawn is imminent – the night sky replaced by an etherial glow. Breath in! Today is another day on my around the world trip. I feel so fortunate to be able to do this. I’m chilling with a cool travel companion, i’m healthy, i haven’t forgotten who i am or where i’m from, the past is the past, and i’m excited about where i might be headed next.

Halysha stirs, and almost out of nowhere she exclaims “Phi Phi”. We smile! Bring on Koh Phi Phi!

dawn view

The Travelling Weight Loss Program

Joining the back of the queue I carefully read the sign to ensure I’m not stopped unnecessarily.

“Please empty pockets and place all items in the tray provided. Please remove shoes and place them in tray provided also. Please remove belt”.

The line of tourists and Nepali’s inch forward slowly, the security officer looking at each person like a potential terrorist. A monk in orange robes is escorted to the front of the line and is allowed to pass without checks despite the metal detector beeping furiously. I’m next. Emptying my pockets I place my wallet, passport, boarding pass and mobile phone in the tray provided. I’m wearing sandals so choose not to remove them. I’m asked whether I am carrying any sharp objects, liquids or weapons. I duly respond trying to sound courteous and respectful but it comes out sounding sarcastic – “uh oh”. I remove my iPad from my back pack and place it in a separate tray together with my pack. I slip off my belt throwing on top of my other belongings and watch them disappear into the darkness of the xray machine. A friendly looking guard standing on the other side of the metal detector ushers me forward, gesturing at me to raise my arms ready for a frisking. Stepping forward I pass under the metal detector with little fuss and stand face to face with the guard, my arms wide, he begins to move his handheld metal detector over my body. I keep a close eye on my belongings which still haven’t emerged from the xray machine – I wouldn’t want anyone to ‘mistakenly’ collect my things. I pass the second test and am ushered toward the collection area with a nonchalant nod of the guard’s head. I see my bag, wallet and iPad are unscathed and make for the collection area. But as I try to walk forward I trip and stumble a few paces. I look down and realize my trousers are around my ankles. Quickly pulling them up I hear chuckles from the security personal sitting behind the Xray machine. “Where is my belt? Did anyone see my ripped underpants? How embarrassing!” I smile but feel like a complete idiot as I struggle to put my belt back on and fasten the clip. Thank God I have brown skin as I don’t think anyone noticed my blushes.

A spot of jungle safari in 80% humidy can help to shed excess fat and induce a light headed feeling

It seems as though I’ve lost around 6 inches off my waist in less than 5 months. I’m quite pleased if I’m honest. I suppose the occasional bout of Delhi Belly and a short trek up to Everest Base Camp was all that was needed. I feel healthier physically and mentally, though I now have the inverse dilemma of my clothes not fitting. On numerous occasions my travel companions have commented on my trousers being far too baggy and t-shirts looking 2 sizes too big. It’s time for a new wardrobe and there is no better place for cheap clothing than Thailand!

Cut-loose

“blood” the old lady exclaimed, pointing to my ankle. I tried to explain to her that i’d been attacked by a blood sucking leech near the World Peace Pogoda but had removed it. She smiled and asks me to roll up my waterproof trousers further. “No, its fine” I try to explain, “I found the djuga, i pulled it off – no more bites”. However she persists on the matter. Rolling up my trouser leg further i see my kahki pants are stained with blood right up to the back of my knees. Much to her satisfaction, i reveal two further bites. The wounds still sobbing unable to clot. I check to see if the leech made its way further up my leg. Thankfully it went no further. I thank the old lady and she continues to speak to me in Nepali, most of which i don’t understand. I guess she wants me to clean the bite immediately. I bid her farewell and continue walking along the street back towards my guest house on Lakeside.

Its hot and humid. I’d set out in the morning to trek up to the pogoda, perched high above Pokhara town, overlooking Fewa Lake and the Annapurna mountain range. Despite the rain, i decide to cut loose. Several weeks of travel companionship, while being a lot of fun, became a little tiresome. Feeling an urge to break free i don my rain gear and cross the lake and make for the hills.

My heart rate increasing with every step, my camera snapping at the incredible views and my mind free to explore, i feel amazing. I missed solitude. Its low season in Nepal, and there is nobody else around to distract me.

Hot, humid and happy

Half way up, i hear the beautiful sound of a wood flute playing a sweet song. I follow the song past a small village and up a muddy path to find a man sheltering from the rain under a large tree overlooking the lake.

Father teaches son how to play the flute.

He’s joined by his son who he is teaching to play the melody by singing then positioning his son’s fingers accordingly. I stop to listen for a moment and continue up the hill with the song in my head and smile on my face.

Reaching the top, i sit by the large Buddhist Stupa (pagoda), wipe the sweat from my brow and contemplate exploring further. The hilly range extents to the South. “i’ll follow the rice paddies and corn plantations to Dam side” i think to myself. Perfect plan!

Fewa Lake in black and white

This is the start of a new chapter in my travels. I’m alone again after 2 months. i travel to Bhutan in 2 days and then on to South East Asia leaving the Indian subcontinent. With that in mind, i make for the green terraced hills to the South, reaching Dam Side 3 hours later, soaked to the bone and with blood streaming down my ankle but I’m incredibly content. My evening masala chai never tasted so sweet.

The Russian Pianist

“Come here! We drink finest Russian Vodka!”

Shivering from the midday cold, I join Neeltje who has already given in to the charms of the old man sitting across the drafty dining room in Dokla. He gestures to me to join them and hands me a shot glass. Sniffing its contents the elixir’s fumes fill my nostrils and sting my eyes much to Neeltje’s amusement. We both settle down alongside the old man to learn more about his journey up the mountain.

We’re almost a week into our ascent up to Everest Base Camp and after a short 2 hour trek from Dingboche we’ve decided to acclimatize at 4900m above sea level at a small settlement with views of Ama Dablam, a 7800m peak. Dokla looked like a small village on the map however we’re surprised to find only one lodge clinging to a rocky ravine. Still we’re tired from 5 days of trekking and our packs don’t seem to be getting any lighter.

“Na sdarovie!” The shot of Vodka quickly warms my throat and face and I look across to Neeltje who’s face is also beaming. “Now – vaat else? Ah!” The Russian dips into his rather small pack and pulls out a plastic bag. From it he removes a block of yak cheese, one chopped red onion, several cloves of garlic, a large tomato, cured pork fat and a bag of savory biscuits and places them neatly on the table. He waves over to one of the lodge staff and asks him for 2 litres boiled water. It duly arrives in a large thermos flask.

Valentcin prepares our coffee

Neeltje and I are still bemused as to what he is preparing but we watch intently as the old man adorns the table with more ingredients and then begins making filtered coffee and oolong tea. I take a moment to observe him while he busies himself with our coffee – adding more vodka to it.

He’s dressed in simple track pants, wool hat and rain jacket. On his feet he has wool socks and a pair of rubber sandals which he treks in. He carries an umbrella as a walking stick and judging from the size of his back pack, he doesn’t have a change of clothes. His hands are enormous, yet delicate when preparing the coffee and pouring our vodka. He moves slowly which suggests to me he’s in his late 60s or early 70’s and he has a spark in his eyes which immediately endears Neeltje and I to him.

Tearing off chunks of yak cheese and nibbling at the biscuits, tomato and garlic we learn more about him, despite his inability to speak much English.

Valentcin is a concert pianist based in Kathmandu and runs a music school with his wife Victoria teaching Nepali locals piano and singing. He is originally from Moscow but moved to Nepal several years ago after touring Asia with several orchestras. He is 77 years old and is traveling alone in the mountains. He mentions he once attempted to climb Everest and reached over 8000m without any oxygen. Noticing Neeltje’s choice of literature, ‘In To Thin Air’ by Jon Krakauer, he also alludes to knowing the Russian, Anatoli Boukreev who summit’ed Everest but later died attempting Annapurna in 1997. From his general preparedness he has climbed these mountains on several occasions and enjoys traveling light.

Neeltje and I both enjoy our time with Valentcin and agree to meet with him once returning to Kathmandu. He asks if we can provide him with some photos of our trek and also offers to assist Neeltje obtaining a Russian Visa for the next stage of her trip. Of course we agree and exchange numbers.

Neeltje marvels at the afternoon's spread.

The following morning, we both wake to find Valentcin has already made a start up the mountain, slowly but purposefully walking with his umbrella and rubber sandals. We quickly pass him, negotiating our way around giant boulders with speed. The air is thinner and we gasp for oxygen with every step reaching Leboche within 3 hours but I’m conscious of how a 77 year old man might feel doing exactly the same route. Valentcin appears a 30 mins or so behind us and continues to walks straight past Leboche, onward to Gorak Shep (5300m) – the last stop before Base Camp. I figure it’s the Vodka which powers him.

As I watch him disappear into the distance I hope when I reach his age, I too continue to live as healthily as he does and can find the spirit to challenge myself each day – just as he does.

We reach Base Camp the following day (day 7) and more importantly, get a glimpse of the top of the world, Mt. Everest flanked by her two smaller sisters, Lotse and Ama Dablam, realizing a dream.

On top of the world